sewage ejector system with only one wire

#SEWAGE EJECTOR SYSTEM WITH ONLY ONE WIRE INSTALL#

Both offer turn key systems - crock to controls and valves. I have also had good experience with Zoeller pumps. I have used Environment One grinder pump systems for an entire house in certain communities that were not conventionally gravity sewered these were in the yard external to the home. The pump discharge will have a check valve in it to keep the forcemain always full. Your fixtures will be vented thru the roof thus venting the crock. Your shop will gravity flow to the crock all below the slab. We don't know where you are located (update your profile) so shall assume it will freeze. Of I agree on the external sealed crock type system as all components would be below grade and protected from freezing.

The parts are inexpensive, but the inconvenience later. Just something simple like using a union on the pump discharge line - for whatever reason, most plumbers skip it. When you are working on this stuff, it's the little stuff that matters. You want to know ASAP if you have a pump failure, before you get a real ucky mess on your hands. 99% of plumbing contractors will NOT do this, and it's one of the most important things to do IMO. Put a red light controlled by this float somewhere high up on the wall inside the shop where you will see it.

#SEWAGE EJECTOR SYSTEM WITH ONLY ONE WIRE INSTALL#

Now if you have the potential for freezing, then you're better off installing a valve pit to the side of the sump (containing isolation valve, check valve, and union to pump discharge), so you can keep all of the piping sub-surface, along with some insulation over the top.Īlso: Install a separate high level float in the sump, powered by a separate circuit than the pump is on. When you service the piping, this gets closed first! Trust me on this - spend the extra $10 for a PVC ball valve. You want a shutoff ball valve on the force main (the discharge pipe from the pump) so you can isolate the line and service everything w/o having to discharge the entire line back downhill. You can use some flexible PVC so the alignment isn't as critical. Important question: is the shop going to be protected from freezing? If so, I would still run the discharge line up out of the sump, using a PVC union (so you can service it easily) followed by the check valve and then an isolation valve and then back down into the slab. You're still going to want the vent of course.

Sewage ejector system with only one wire